Planting Your Containerized Christmas Tree
Southwest Yard and Garden | by Marisa Thompson
Conifer seedlings are
grown in tall cone-tainers to minimize circling roots at the NMSU John T. Harrington Forestry Research Center in Mora, NM. (photo by M. Thompson) |
Question:
We bought a live, potted Christmas tree this
year. When and how should we plant it in our yard?
-
Tammy Z., Albuquerque, NM
Answer:
What a great way to add a beautiful evergreen to your home
landscape and, in doing so, help our urban forest efforts. My backyard growing
up in South Carolina had several Christmas trees planted in the yard, each a
memory from holidays past. However, when we planted our Christmas Rocky
Mountain juniper in Las Cruces some years ago, it did not make it very long. I
now know that I was severely overwatering that poor, sopping tree. 😢 It never
stood a chance.
To more fully answer your question, I searched the NMSU Extension
Publications website (http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/) and found Guide H-421, “Buying aLiving Christmas Tree,” which you might find useful as it includes information
about planting and general care.
I also called the Albuquerque Parks and
Recreation City Forester, Joran Viers, whose first piece of Christmas tree
advice was, “Don’t plant the ones without roots.”
Jokes aside, Viers said that it will probably
take a few weeks to harden the tree off during the transition from inside to
outside. Acclimatize it to outdoor life by taking it outside in the daytime in
increasingly sunny spots, and bring it inside each night for a few weeks, until
it has gotten used to the cold and the intense sunlight. The longer you keep it
inside, the longer you will need to harden it off.
Viers added, “The key to planting potted
evergreens is to look closely at the actual root structure as much as possible
to find circling roots before you plant. If you see circling roots, find the spot
where the root starts to turn and cut it below the turn.” Circling roots are a major
problem with the containerized tree industry. At first, they may grow normally
after planting, but eventually the knotted roots are likely to strangle each
other and may kill the tree.
Exposed root is choking this tree after being container-grown. (open source photo) |
Spiraling root ball of dead Osage orange tree. (photo courtesy of Dr. John Mexal) |
Exposed circling root still in container. (photo courtesy of Dr. John Mexal) |
It is important to take good care when
planting and maintaining plants in our environment. As New Mexicans, we are
well aware of our water limitations. I believe watering landscape plants can be
a good use of our groundwater, but if—and only if—we are doing so wisely.
Correctly watering a tree that is specifically suited to our climate is great,
but watering a dying tree is a waste. Dr. Curtis Smith, retired NMSU Extension
Horticulture Specialist, advised watching for windy days when plants are more
prone to drying out if not watered properly, especially while still in the pot
and the first few months after planting. Both Smith and Viers warned, however,
that conifers do not like wet feet, so check the soil moisture with a finger
before watering. I wish I had known that before drowning my juniper. Check back
next week for more on best tree planting practices that might surprise you. In
the meantime, start taking your tree outside in the daylight hours.
Somebody please make me a bumper sticker with my favorite tree
quote: The best time to plant a tree was twenty years ago. The second-best time
is today. #climatechange #climatehope
Email me your gardening questions at desertblooms@nmsu.edu
or share them on social media @NMDesertBlooms!
For more local gardening information, visit
the www.desertblooms.nmsu.edu and the NMSU Horticulture Publications page at http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/.
Marisa Y. Thompson, PhD, is the
Extension Horticulture Specialist, in the Department of Extension Plant
Sciences at the New Mexico State University Los Lunas Agricultural Science
Center, office: 505- 865-7340, ext. 113.
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