When to Prune: Considerations Galore
Southwest Yard and Garden
By Dr. Marisa Thompson, NMSU Extension Horticulture Specialist
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| https://nmsudesertblooms.blogspot.com/2020/01/pruning.html |
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| Notice how this ash tree at the NMSU Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas has co-dominant stems? That’s when two or more branches of similar diameter stem from the same union. These aren’t a problem, yet. Over time, if they continue to grow at the same rate, included bark can form at the base of the branches and as they grow they’ll be pushing each other apart, causing a weak union that could be damaging, both to the tree and as a hazard to the surrounding area. Select one of the co-dominant stems and do either a reduction cut to a live lateral branch or a removal cut just outside the branch collar. Photo credit M. Thompson. |
Links to related columns:
Pruning Do's and Don'ts
Rose Pruning
Lilac Pruning
Pomegranate Pruning
Fruit Thinning (late spring/early summer)
Scroll down for more pruning resource links!
- Weary gardeners across
the state
Dr. Gilman's incredible Resources:
Answer:
Well, you’re not going to be surprised at this answer: It just depends.
What are your reasons for pruning? Are your trees grown for their
beautiful blooms? If so, do they bloom before leaves start to appear? Trees
like redbuds and crabapples and shrubs like lilac and forsythia flower before
they leaf out, and that’s a clue that the flowers emerge from buds growing on older
growth. If you prune too much you’ll lose out on this season’s flush of color.
It makes more sense to prune those just after they’ve bloomed.
On the other hand, if you’re wanting to reduce the growth of a
young tree because branches are getting awfully close to your gutter, pruning
midsummer might make more sense than pruning in late February. As Dr. Ed Gilman
explains in his wonderful book An
Illustrated Guide to Pruning, “To retard growth and for a maximum dwarfing
effect on all trees, prune just after each growth flush, when the leaves have
fully expanded and turned dark green. Pruning at this time theoretically slows
growth by reducing photosynthetic capacity and energy-storing wood (sapwood),
which causes a dwarfing effect. Only healthy, vigorous, young or medium-aged
trees should be pruned using this strategy. Pruning live branches from
unhealthy old trees, including those impacted by construction activities, at a
time of low energy reserves, during or just after the growth flush, could
deplete them further of much-needed energy reserves and energy-producing tissue
(i.e., leaves).” You might also consider moving that young tree to a better
spot before it’s too big and gets more difficult to move. “Right tree for the
right place” is an Arbor Day Foundation mantra that is simple, yet bears
repeating because we mess this one up. A lot.
Pruning during dormancy triggers a greater flush of new growth
once the season kicks off in spring. That’s one reason pruning is so important
for increasing potential fruit and nut yields. Gilman again: “To encourage the
greatest total growth when pruning deciduous and semi-evergreen plants, prune during
the dormant period.”
For more on pruning apple, pear, cherry, plum, and peach trees,
check out our NMSU Extension Guide “Pruning the Home Orchard” by visiting https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H327/welcome.html.
Are your trees newly planted? There are pros and cons to pruning
at the time of planting. One pro is that the smaller the branch diameter the
better because it’ll take less energy for the tree to seal a smaller wound. At
last year’s annual Valencia County Extension pruning workshop, Joran Viers,
City Forester for the City of Albuquerque, said, “Pruning is an exercise in
imagining the future.” If you can identify a branch or two that will eventually
need to be pruned out, it’s better to do it while that branch is smaller. And
it can be way easier to reach and do a proper cut by leaning a potted tree on
its side to prune before it even goes in the ground.
However, in the weeks and months after planting, we want the roots
to take hold first. So that means being patient with your new tree and
understanding that slow growth above ground may just mean the roots are doing
great and the canopy will catch up later in the season, or next year. Many
arborists and researchers recommend pruning as little aboveground tissue as
possible at the time of planting to discourage canopy growth and encourage root
establishment in that first season.
Remember, pruning injures trees, so if you can avoid pruning
altogether, that’s preferable. Trees that are grown directly from seed and
planted in the right location may never need pruning. At Think Trees New
Mexico’s 33rd annual conference in 2019, keynote speaker Denise
Britton, consulting arborist from California, stated, “Trees don’t need pruning.
Pruning is for people,” which prompted several arborists in the packed
conference room to break out in applause. Most ornamental and fruit trees are
pruned in the nursery, and that interrupts their natural growth form, so we
have to make pruning decisions throughout the life of the tree. Plus, many
fruit trees have been bred for production more than branching structure, so
pruning may be required in order to support the fruit load.
Here are some reasons pruning workshops are commonly scheduled in the
late winter months:
- If we prune fruit trees in the middle of summer, we’re pruning out
fruit that are already getting established and those resources are lost.
- It’s easier to see the branching structure on deciduous trees when
they’re dormant.
- There’s already so much other work to do in our gardens and
orchards during the growing season.
No matter what time of year, it’s always a good time to prune out
damaged, dangerous, or dead branches—it’s much easier to find dead branches
when the rest of the tree is covered in leaves.
Links to more resources,
including pruning animations by Dr. Gilman:
- Pruning Information for Tree Owners from TreesAreGood.org
- Disinfecting pruning tools: Use a common household cleaner like Lysol. In studies on pruning tool disinfection, these household cleaners performed as well as bleach, but bleach was the most harmful to blade surfaces.
- Tree Pruning Techniques NMSU Guide H-156
- Pruning the Home Orchard NMSU Guide H-327
- Thinning Fruit for Tree Health
- NMSU's Pecan Extension Program pruning resources: https://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/pecans/pruning.html
Dr. Gilman's incredible Resources:
- Pruning Shade Trees in Landscapes Website FULL of resources: https://hort.ifas.ufl.edu/woody/pruning.shtml
- Developing a Preventive Pruning Program:
- Animations
- Animation of removal cut
- Animation of reduction cut
- Animation of heading cut (NOTE: CONSIDERED IMPROPER PRUNING PRACTICE ON MOST ESTABLISHED LANDSCAPE TREES!)
- Dead branch removal
For more
gardening information, including
decades of archived Southwest Yard & Garden columns, visit the NMSU
Extension Horticulture page (http://desertblooms.nmsu.edu/),
follow us on social media (@NMDesertBlooms), or contact your County Extension
office (https://aces.nmsu.edu/county).
Marisa Thompson, PhD, is the Extension Horticulture Specialist for New
Mexico State University and is based at the Agricultural Science Center at Los
Lunas.
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