Now that the roses have *mostly* finished blooming...
Southwest Yard & Garden by Dr.
Marisa Thompson
Show-offs at the Albuquerque Rose Garden on May 13, 2020. Photo credits M. Thompson.
Perhaps they already have. The City of Albuquerque BioPark
Botanical Garden has an incredible High Desert Rose Garden with carefully selected
hardier species and species hybrids from arid climates.
Maria Thomas, Curator of Plants for the City of Albuquerque BioPark shared several of the clever water-saving, rose-loving techniques they’re demonstrating in the High Desert Rose Garden:
Maria Thomas, Curator of Plants for the City of Albuquerque BioPark shared several of the clever water-saving, rose-loving techniques they’re demonstrating in the High Desert Rose Garden:
- Living mulch, using creeping phlox (Phlox stolonifera) - shading roots and cooling the soil
- Sunken beds (just 2-3 inches deep) to capitalize on water runoff capture
- Permeable hardscape in surrounding area
- Mini arroyos meander from nearby buildings to slow and divert water to the roses
- Organic, slow-release fertilizers are used as an Integrated Pest Management technique because they do not cause a flush of new growth that can stress the plant and attract pests
While visiting the Albuquerque Rose Garden (showcasing over 1,200
roses maintained by the dedicated Albuquerque Rose Society volunteers, http://www.albuquerquerose.com/)
again last week, I noticed that many of their rose bushes, including the ones
that were pruned during my last visit in early March, had already bloomed.
Several flowers and leaves showed signs of damage from our April 13 frost, and
a few later bloomers were still developing buds. I got great photos of the beauties
that were in bloom. SCROLL to the bottom to see more of these pretty pics, as well as photos of
frost damage and disease and videos from the pruning demo in March.
Frost-singed leaves on a rose at the Albuquerque Rose Garden. Photo credit M. Thompson. |
Painted lady butterfly (Vanessa cardui) on hot pink ‘Peggy Martin’ hybrid multiflora rosebush at the Albuquerque Rose Garden. Photo credit M. Thompson.
This week I selected a column written by retired NMSUExtension Horticulture Specialist Dr. Curtis Smith 13 years ago to feature as a timely reprint...
Answer: It depends on what roses you are growing. There are some roses
that will not bloom again this summer, including a common rose called 'Dr. Huey.' This is the rootstock on which many roses are grafted today. In some instances,
this rootstock plant begins growing and overwhelms the rose that was grafted on
it, or the grafted rose is damaged by winter freezing. When this happens your
rose blooms once each year. Dr. Huey's flowers are numerous and very attractive
dark red with yellow centers. Many people just keep it for that reason rather
than replacing it after it assumes dominance. There are some old-fashioned
roses that also bloom only once. Unless you have Dr. Huey or an old-fashioned
rose, you can expect more flowers this summer.
To
maximize the production of more blossoms, you can fertilize now with a rose
fertilizer. [Always follow label directions and take care not to overfertilize. For more information on fertilizer burn symptoms on roses, click HERE.] Pruning will help maintain the quality of future blossoms. Pruning
to remove the spent flowers is called deadheading and removal of these spent
flowers prevents the formation of rose hips (fruits). The plant's food, produced by
photosynthesis, is then directed in the production of more flowers.
When
you prune, you should cut the plant in a manner that directs growth in the
proper direction. Prune back to a bud facing the direction you want new growth.
Don't direct growth in the direction of a sidewalk or toward the middle of the
plant where there is not enough light for good flower production. Prune far
enough back so that the stem is strong enough to support a new flowering stem.
A traditional rule of thumb is to prune back at least as far as the first
5-leaflet leaf. The first leaf below the spent flower usually has only one
leaflet or perhaps 3 leaflets. Buds from these nodes are often weak and do not
properly support the new flowers well. You can cut well below the first
5-leaflet leaf if you need to reduce the size of an overly long branch that is
growing over a sidewalk.
[Note from Marisa: another rule of thumb from rosarian Judy Nickell is to prune back to where the branch is at least as thick as a No. 2 pencil, because, as Dr. Smith pointed out, thinner branches will have trouble supporting a big new bloom.]
When
the next series of flowers is produced, you can cut some long-stemmed roses to
take indoors. This is an appropriate means of pruning and prevents the need for
deadheading that particular blossom.
Roses
are a favorite garden plant in New Mexico and elsewhere in the country because
of their tendency to rebloom and produce a succession of flowers throughout the
summer. Enjoy your roses.
Roses at the Albuquerque Rose Garden on May 13, 2020. Photo credits Marisa Thompson.
'Outta the Blue' shrub rose. |
'Oranges and Lemons' shrub rose. |
'Rock and Roll' grandiflora rose. |
(I didn't get the name of this beauty.) |
This pretty little rose is displaying classic symptoms of powdery mildew (close-up photo below). For more on powdery mildew, visit https://nmsudesertblooms.blogspot.com/2017/09/blame-it-on-rain-identification-and.html. |
Close up of rose branch with powdery mildew symptoms. |
Pruning videos I took from the Albuquerque Rose Garden in early March are taking too long to load using WiFi at home, so I'll try to add them from work this week. -Marisa :)
For more gardening information, including
decades of archived Southwest Yard & Garden columns, visit the NMSU
Extension Horticulture page (http://desertblooms.nmsu.edu/), follow us
on social media (@NMDesertBlooms), or contact your County Extension office (https://aces.nmsu.edu/county).
Marisa Thompson, PhD, is the Extension
Horticulture Specialist for New Mexico State University and is based at the
Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.
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