Microclimate Control
Southwest Yard & Garden
By Marisa Thompson
The power of microclimates is exemplified by these images of chile plants growing in a warm microclimate (left) versus a cold microclimate (right) on Nov. 23, 2021. Photo credits Elliott Gordon. |
Question: How long can I leave green tomatoes on the
plant before they’re ruined by a frost?
-
submitted by Curry
County Extension Agriculture Agent Mason Grau
Answer:
If temperatures are expected to drop near freezing in your area
and you leave fruit on the plants, you’re pushing it. Maybe your neighborhood
is a little warmer than the surrounding areas, and you’ll get a few extra days
(or even weeks) for fruit to ripen outside. Maybe your plants are in a hot
microclimate in your yard where they’re safer. Maybe temperatures drop below
freezing in your yard, but only for a few minutes, so the more exposed tomatoes
get burned by frost and turn to mush, but most of the tomatoes tucked in under
the leaves go untouched.
The effects of microclimates can be dramatic.
Seasoned gardeners have learned—often the hard way—how to maximize production
by micromanaging their microclimates. As my predecessors explained in archived
columns from years past,
“Your friends across town or a mile away will have
some differences in gardening conditions due to the microclimates you will find
in your area. In fact, there will be a significant microclimate difference
between the north and south side of your own home” (https://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/archives/february-29-2014.html).
- Dr. Curtis Smith
“By taking advantage of microclimates in the garden,
New Mexicans can extend the growing season for many vegetables. Planting
watermelons and cantaloupes near a block wall with southern exposure, for example,
will increase the average temperature surrounding melon vines. On the other
hand, planting cool-season crops like leaf lettuce, spinach, and cabbage on the
north side of a house will help lower the temperature” (https://aces.nmsu.edu/ces/yard/melon_patch/2001/apr01.html).
– Dr. George Dickerson
It’s too hard to recommend precisely when to harvest
the final fruits without knowing the microclimate and the forecast really,
really well. Gardener and pollinator enthusiast Elliott Gordon lives near the Albuquerque
foothills and reported that his pepper plants were still flowering and
producing fruit as of November 21. Nearby temperatures had recently dropped as
low as 27°F in another part of the same yard. Talk about a microclimate effect;
these particular peppers were volunteers this year and are growing in the crack
between a concrete driveway and a south-facing cinderblock wall. I was curious
to know how temperatures in that spot differed from colder, more exposed
spaces, so I dropped off a few mini temperature data loggers to be placed
strategically around Gordon’s yard. The results shocked both of us. On the
night of November 25, low temperatures ranged from 31.0°F all the way down to 15.7°F!
Before asking what time those lowest lows were recorded, I checked my favorite
source for wind data visualization (ventusky.com)
to see if wind patterns changed in the night, bringing cold air down from
Sandia Peak. Sure enough, from about 3 to 6 am, “gusts” up to 11 mph were
swooping down off the mountains, cooling the Albuquerque foothills. According
to Gordon’s data, those lowest temps occurred between 5 and 6 am.
Growing in a warm microclimate in an Albuquerque yard. This chile pepper flower appears to still be intact as of Dec. 1, 2021. Photo credit Elliott Gordon. |
Are the flowers on those pepper plants going to
remain viable and develop into fruit for a winter solstice harvest? Not likely.
Even if the plants themselves keep trucking in their hot spot, in order for
fruit to set, nighttime temperatures generally need to remain above 60°F. The
blossoms are probably going to drop any day now.
According to several weather websites, this year’s
first frost in Clovis was in early November, with temperatures dipping down
into the low 20s by mid-month. The average first frost date for Curry County is
in mid to late October. By now, even the warmest parts of the state are past
their average first frost dates, so if they haven’t frozen yet, it won’t be
long. To check your average first—and last—frost dates, visit https://www.plantmaps.com, type in your ZIP Code, and scroll down to the
“Additional Gardening Related Data” section. Keep in mind that the average
frost dates vary based on which range of years are used and the microclimate
where the data is collected.
For more gardening information, visit the NMSU Extension Urban Horticulture page at http://desertblooms.nmsu.edu/ and the NMSU Horticulture Publications page at http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/. Find your local Cooperative Extension Office at https://aces.nmsu.edu/county/.
Marisa Y. Thompson, Ph.D., is the Extension Urban Horticulture Specialist in the Department of Extension Plant Sciences and is based at the New Mexico State University Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.
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